Starlink Tower Mount: A Safe DIY To Get Clear Signal In Wooded Areas

About Starlink Tower Mount, Setting up Starlink in a wooded area or an area rife with obstructions will be challenging until you set up a DIY Starlink tower mount.  Installing a Starlink tower mount is …

Tower mount for communication antennas

About Starlink Tower Mount, Setting up Starlink in a wooded area or an area rife with obstructions will be challenging until you set up a DIY Starlink tower mount. 

Installing a Starlink tower mount is labor-intensive yet hugely rewarding if done right.

And the best part is you can install a tower mount near your home within a day.

A tower-mounted starlink dish will likely be above any nearby structures, and you can get clear signals. 

We’ll give you a start-to-finish guide on what to buy and how to install a Starlink tower mount. 

Table of Contents

When you get the Starlink kit and visit the Starlink website, you’ll see they emphasize on having no obstructions. To that end, the Starlink shop has various mounts for different environments. 

However, you will not find a Starlink tower mount.

A tower mount, ideally, is a huge structure about 25-40 feet high that puts your dish above most elements around your home.

It is much bigger than the mounts Starlink offers. 

Still, the lack of Starlink tower mounts doesn’t mean you can’t have your Starlink dishy on a tower. A little ingenuity and hard work will get your dish towering above most obstructions. 

Some tower mounts come pre-made with a robust concrete base. However, most used towers for home antennas and satellites will come in sections and without a base. 

You’ll be lucky to get a wantaway tower for about $100. However, you can invest in a new one such as the Rohn 25 Series Tower Mount from online retailers.

The Rohn 25 Tower Mount is a favorite among many homeowners when they want to mount a Starlink dish way above regular mount reach. 

Firstly, the Rohn 25 Tower Mount has double-bolted joints. They increase the tower’s sturdiness and maintain a straight gait against the wind. 

It is triangular at the bottom with a wide stance that holds up well if pre-cast in concrete as a base. 

It comes with strong 16-Gauge legs 5/16″ outer diameter solid bracing. Additionally, it is hot-dipped galvanized with extra strength against fast gusts of wind.

Finally, it tapers off to a 9.9 inch 14-Gauge 2.24″ OD x 2.08″ ID mounting pole that can fit the Starlink adapter. 

However, getting the 25 series tower mount for Starlink will need you to get heavy machinery to install it. It can weigh up to 45 lbs per section and 230 lbs total. 

Once installed, you can climb the tower. The manufacturer recommends a maximum weight of 250 lbs weight limit for the climber. 

A cell tower with protective fencing

A cell tower with protective fencing

You can install a tower mount for Starlink. In fact, we recommend installing a Starlink tower mount in a high-obstruction area such as a forested location. 

You’ll need the following tools for your Starlink tower mount installation. 

Protective wear and gear(harness, mask, protective eyewear)

  • Shovel or a post hole digger
  • Aerial boom lift
  • Concrete mix or quick-drying cement
  • Metal rods
  • Zip ties
  • Electrical conduit elbow
  • A third-party tower. You can get a pre-owned tower or buy it on online platforms such as Marketplace or Craigslist. 
  • Optional antisieze compound
  • Paint


  1. Ensure you have all municipality/town permits to install a tower.
  2. Ensure you are not going against any building codes or HOA restrictions.
  3. Call Digsafe to check utility lines/pipes running under your dig area. 
  4. Unplug your Starlink dish and carry it to the installation site in the dishy carrier bag. The bag will come in handy later.
  5. If you intend to install the tower mount close to your house, install a brace on the side of the wall. It improves sturdiness. However, this step is optional. Installing it further from the house might need more concrete or guy wires. 


  1. Dig a hole about 30-50 inches deep at the installation site. A shovel works fine, but a Post Hole Digger makes it easier. Make the hole wide enough to accommodate the tower base’s width. 
  2. Pour gravel about 2 inches into the hole to improve drainage.
  3. De-rust, prime, and paint the first end of the tower. The first end serves as the base. Ensure the skinnier(male) end faces up and the thicker(female)end is the base. Don’t nick the paint as you insert the base.
  4. Use a level to check if it’s straight. 
  5. Put on the mask and pour concrete, preferably quick-dry concrete. If you prefer concrete mix, mix the concrete first, then pour it in until the hole is filled. Quick dry concrete works fast. Just pour some bags at a time, pour water, and allow it to set.
  6. When the concrete sets on the first part of the mount, apply an anti-seize compound on the male end. Insert the 2nd section of the tower, male side up. Use a clamp to drive the poles into each other.
  7. Use an aerial boom lift to install the final bit of the tower. Install and tighten the bolts passing between the holes in the tower ends. (Ensure you align the holes every time you insert one end of the tower into another.)
  1. Install the Starlink mount adapter on the topmost part of the tower. 
  2. Assuming you carried your dishy up the tower with the dishy carrier bag, drop the cable and install the Starlink dish onto the adapter. Leave a service loop at the top and secure it with a zip tie. 
  3. Tighten the Allen screws to secure the adapter to the tower and the holes attaching the top end of the tower to the section beneath it. 
  4. Secure the Starlink cable along a tower leg about 3-5ft apart as you go down. Wrap high-quality electrical tape or secure the cable with zip ties. Zip ties are less vulnerable to rain and snow.
Lightning grounding installation

Lightning grounding installation

Lightning is a major concern when you’ve got a tower made from a conductive material up that high. To that end, you must protect the tower. Follow the procedure below. 

  1. Install three metal rods 6ft apart in a triangle. 
  2. Grind down a small section of the tower mount to expose the metal. 
  3. Attach clamps on each of the three rods and the exposed section of the tower. 
  4. Run a cable through the rods and secure it to the tower leg. 
  5. Coat the exposed metal with rubberized coating.
  1. When the Starlink cable is secure along the tower mount leg, route it to your home
  2. Drill a hole into the house to pass the Starlink cable. The hole should fit the Starlink cable. 
  3. Install the electrical conduit elbow so the top end covers the drilled hole. 
  4. Screw the long side of the conduit elbow to the house. 
  5. Apply sealant on the sides of the hole and on the top part of the conduit elbow, and apply duct seal to the bottom opening of the elbow. The duct seal is removable and doesn’t dry out. It’s great for maintenance or when you need to add more cables.
An electrical conduit elbow 

An electrical conduit elbow 

  1. Reconnect the Starlink dish cable to the router. If the installation is successful, the dish should automatically align itself. 
  2. Run a speed test with the Starlink dish in place. 

Remember, you are liable for any damage or injury if an intruder climbs your tower and hurts themselves. 

Furthermore, children can also climb the Starlink tower mount. Therefore, you must protect the area around the tower mount and the Starlink dish. 

Install a prohibitive chicken wire, pigpen wire, or chain link fence about 8ft high with a secure entryway. 

Starlink is meant to serve people in remote areas.

 It would be difficult for people in locations with towering obstructions to get clear signals when they can’t get a clear line of sight. 

However, this Starlink tower mount installation guide will come in handy to give them a clear view. 

The installation can be a one-person job. However, making it a collaborative effort or hiring a professional installation crew might keep you safe.